Thursday 4 June 2015

Mount Gede

Jogging? Done.
Tennis? Done.
Swimming? Done.
Volley? Done.
Cycling? Done.
Badminton? Done.
Table tennis? Done.

Well I'm not trying to be a pro on every type of sport, but at least I have tried to do all of them. But hiking? Man, I have never tried that before. I hiked Mount Ijen, a small mountain in East Java, with a 2,799 m of elevation, but that was many years ago, maybe when I was 10 or eleven. Hiking plus camping? Hell, yes! So when my dad offer me a chance to hike Mount Gede and camping for two days, I immediately said yes.

Few facts about Mount Gede, the peak is about 2,958 m above sea level, and it is one of the twin volcanoes that located near Bogor. Its twin, Pangrango, is a bit higher than Gede, and both of the peak is connected by a high saddle, known as Kandang Badak, which is our first camping site. While hiking you can enjoy thermal springs, Alun-alun Suryakencana, a 50-hectare meadow covered with Edelweiss flowers, 50-meter tall Cibeureum waterfall, mount Putri which is a perfect camping site for a large pack of campers. 

So here is the plan: we start hiking from Cibodas, then enjoy the magnificent view of Cibeureum Waterfall, crossed the thermal springs, and end our first day by camping in Kandang Badak. Next, we reach the peak, then continue our way down to Alun-alun Suryakencana, camp there, then finish our journey walking down Mount Putri.

Zero experience on camping and hiking, I had no idea what to bring, and my dad said bring anything that you need if you want to withstand freezing wind and cold temperature. So I packed my winter clothes (Have never guessed in my life that I will need those bulky clothes in Indonesia!), and some chocolates, two bottles of water, wind-stopper jacket, long sport trousers, my cycling bandana, anything that I think I will need there. The result is, my bag is unfortunately big and well, I thought my dad would say, you're going camping or taking a vacation in Antarctica? Yet his reaction was plain and when I saw his bag, it was the same size as mine. He told me not to worry, we will hire porters there to bring our bags. Relieved sigh.

H-day, we departed from Jakarta to Cibodas after meeting with the group in Kelapa Gading Sport Club to Cibodas, where we introduced to our porters. 13 hikers, 17 porters. Seems like we decided to move an entire hotel up to the mountain. BTW do you know how much weight the porters have to hike with? Approximately 20 to 30 kg one person, including our drinking water, big-sized tents (precisely how big? You will know after you see the photos :D), food, etc. A VVIP hiking program lol.

After a short hike, we finally arrived in our first hike, Cibeureum Waterfall. The water is cool and invigorating, you can feel the splash if you stand near enough the waterfall. The pack rested in the Gazebo while eating lemper, a traditional Indonesian dish made with glutinous rice filled with meat (sometimes chicken or beef) and invincible chilis. lol, kidding, but some lempers were indeed spicy.

Cibeureum Waterfall
The smaller waterfall
There were 9 of us who continued to reach the peak, so we said goodbye to the others and continue our way. I hiked... I hiked... and I hiked... I wasn't entirely tired, but I was bored, you have to keep your focus on the road and keep hiking, just like Dory in Finding Nemo, "Just keep hiking, just keep hiking, just keep hiking, hiking, hiking..."

Half day of hiking, we finally reached the hot thermal spring, and we had to pass a tiny hot thermal waterfall by walking on these rocks:


The rocks were so freaking wet and slippery. On your left hand side, the hot water kept rushing down while you were carefully stepping on these rocks. On the right, you can see the beautiful scenery of the jungle colored by the steam, and... the cliff. One step mistaken you will be going on a trip down the road of death. But I couldn't see. Why? My glasses were blurred because of the steam. Exhilarating.
Our team crossing the waterfall of death
Arrived at Kandang Badak at maybe 3 or 4 pm, our first camping site exhausted, we were glad to see the porters already set up the tents. I was amazed. It never crossed my mind that this camp can be so luxurious. Imagine this, large sized tents, enough for 5 of us to squeeze together, a living room (sort of), and our personal kitchen with chefs-wanna-be already prepared.

Kampung Badak
Is this real life? Is it just fantasy?
Army's sleeping bag, and inflatable pillow (not mine)
Settled down very fast, started unpacking the bags, changed our smelly clothes, and just the time for dinner. We brought rendang, a spicy meat dish originated from Padang and heated them up. For dinner: vegetable soup, rendang, rice, and some salted fish. Tasted very good, couldn't ask for more when you're hiking far on the mountain. One lesson, you should eat a lot for dinner, cause it get so cold at night, and if you're hungry in the middle of the night, say good bye to your beauty sleep.

As the night had fallen, the camping site got colder and colder. Wearing my thick jacket and wool hat, I sat beside my companions, watching the flames dancing in the dark. Until I decided to end my first day, by sliding in the sleeping bag and tried to sleep.


The bad news was, my place was in the side of the tent, and I could feel the slant part of the tent right above my head, and I felt so... claustrophobic. Like you don't get enough space to sleep, plus your sleeping bag provide not much sleeping positions, and I found it hard to sleep. Not to mention the snoring orchestra by all the men (FYI, I was the only girl in the group). I could determine who belongs to tenor, soprano, bass, etc. lol.

I woke up just in time, when the sky was starting to lighten up, I grabbed my wet tissues and plastic, and tried to find a spot to... well, doing my morning dump routine. Found a perfect spot, I dug a hole, not too big yet not too small, and when I lowered my trousers, I feel the cold breeze blowing on my ass. Imagine how you can concentrate on a condition like that. 

Frying krupuk in the middle of nowhere 



Some fun I had while hiking: found these  shaped leaves, 'touching' the peak of Mount Pangrango, and devil climb. Why devil? Because of its steepness slope, and you have to climb it by using ropes. Very challenging actually, my eyes were shining with excitement as I tried to climb, and surprisingly, it was quite easy, even for a beginner like me. You should try it, really.

The rest of the journey to the peak wasn't as tiring as the first day, and about two hours of hiking, we finally reached the top. From stone pavement, to no roads at all, just rocks. You have to find your own way to reach the top (ceilehhhhhh). Sometimes ones chosen way can be different from the other, I preferred rocks with smaller elevation which allow me to save more energy, worked well for me anyway. How about you?

Majestic as hell
Panoramic view before the peak
Finally, we almost reached the peak. The roads are slippery with small pebbles, so watch where you step. Beside watching where you step, you should turn your head around and watch those clouds slowly flying along the wind. We could see the clouds forming a sea, along with the blue sky as their background. So beautiful. Oh, and don't forget to use your sunblock here, the sun was shining very bright. Don't bother to use sunblock on the first day, the trees are so dense, almost no ray of sunlight can touch your skin.

Sea of clouds
Rocky, slippery road
After few more minutes of sunbathing and wind-blowing, we finally reached the peak. If you look carefully, you can see the crater of Mount Gede, with the yellow-ish color and the smell of sulfur. Rested a bit on the peak while eating some cakes, I realized it was noon, lunch time, yet I didn't feel any hunger.

Mission accomplished!
The crater
Ready to continue again, we waved our hands goodbye to those tiring climbs, yet never had guessed what lies upon us: downhills. I thought going down is far more relaxing and not as tiring as climbing a mountain, but, boy, I was SO wrong. The journey travelling down the mountain was terrible, but once you get hold to it, you can move very fast. Fast, I meant for the rocky road, not for the sandy or the one with many pebbles, which was very slippery. Imagine I hopped from one rock to other while holding on the small trees or big branches, the ones which are strong enough to hold my weight :D

After hopping down thousands of rocks, we finally reached the meadow, erm... probably more like savana, but of course no carnivores. Full of yellowish weeds, you can also enjoy the view of Edelweiss flowers in the both sides. Funny story about Edelweiss: that was my very first time to see an Edelweiss flower, and I thought it would be white like the ones in the picture of my old story book. The flowers turn yellow depends on the season. And one of my new friend, he hiked Mount Gede for the second time, and he told me the sensation of taking a dump surrounded with the beautiful Edelweiss flower. Well, not right next to the bush, of course, as it would pollute the plant. Then I blamed him for turning the flowers into yellow. LOL

Walking in these weeds made me feel like I was in the Lord of the Rings trilogy

Edelweiß, Edelweiß, Du grüßt mich jeden Morgen
We spent the last night camping in the meadow, but it was rather scary: the wind was howling all night, and our tent made some weird noises, like the sound of the tent's zip opening and closing. I knew it was the tent to blame, I felt a bit claustrophobic (again), and had to go outside to get some fresh air.

Finally, last day! After not showering for 2 days, that was the best hot shower I had ever had in my life. And I was sick for a few days after the hike LOL.




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